Havana oo na-na

Sunshine, salsa and cocktails. That’s what comes to mind when I think back to my time in Cuba.

When people ask me where my most favourite place was in my two and a half months away, although it’s a pretty tough question, I have to admit my mind automatically finds itself wandering down the colourful streets of Havana. Cuba has certainly engraved itself onto my heart and is definitely a place I would recommend to anyone thinking of holidaying in, or around, Latin America.

My first stop was Havana, where I stayed for five days. Havana was exactly how I imagined it to be and just like I’ve seen in the movies. People smoke the cigars and drive the old cars. They observe you from their balconies as you walk their graffitied neighbourhoods, causing you to become fully aware of your foreignness as you pass. They hang their washing out to soak up that Caribbean sun, and yes, almost every restaurant or cocktail bar has a live band where people Salsa and Son between mojitos. Cuba was constantly bubbling with life and culture and this is exactly why I fell in love with it.  

 Upon arrival to Havana, I met a girl and guy at the airport who, by the size of their backpacks, looked as though they were also doing a long stretch of travelling. I befriended them and found out that they had just arrived in Cuba and were on the first day of an eight-month gap year (Katy) and 10-day surfing holiday (Johannas). We shared a taxi into Old Town and decided to swap numbers and meet up over the next few days. Katy was from the UK and it was also the sense of now or never that had given her the push she needed to fly out and meet her friend, also in South America, who was currently doing a year of backpacking. Johannas, on the other hand, was lucky enough to be put on garden leave after leaving London to transition to another job back in his home town, Germany. We all connected on the ‘if not now, then when’, and our taxi conversation really reminded me of just how fortunate I was to be one of the many brave wanderlusters embarking on this trip of a lifetime.

Over the next few days, I hung out mainly with Johannas as we were staying fairly close to each other in town. We wandered into a few markets in Old Town and tried a few café’s in search of mojitos and ropa vieja, the national dish of Cuba consisting of beans and shredded meat. Ropa Vieja literally translates to ‘old clothes’ and legend has it that a poor man once shredded and cooked his clothes because he did not have enough money to feed his family. As the mixture bubbled away, he prayed, and by miracle the concoction turned into a tasty meat stew that he was able to feed his family with. Aside from actually not liking much of the food in Cuba (let me just put it out there that the rumours are true, Cuba is NOT a culinary destination!) I can attest that this particular dish was just all round yummy!

Next up was a tour in a Chevrolet. I mean you can’t go all the way to Cuba and not ride a vintage car. And boy was it something. I decided to go for the brightest, shiniest, hot pink Chevrolet and my driver Horece made it his duty to ensure everyone knew there was a new girl in town as he tooted his horn every chance he got. It was a one hour tour that covered the main sites of Havana. We drove along the Malacon; the famous seawall that serves as a border between Havana and the Caribbean sea where couples are known to rendezvous after sunset.

We then visited the Partagás Cigar Factory where I was able to stop and receive a quick history on what actually makes a Cuban cigar so reputable. Although I am a non-smoker, I have always been curious to know what the hype was around these infamous cigars and it was very fascinating to learn that there actually were a few distinctive factors that put Cuban cigars head and shoulders above all the others. The first was due to Cuba being so well located in the Caribbean. Its humidity, warm climate and consistency of rainfall creates the perfect environment to make the tobacco so unique to Cuba and in a way that no other nation can replicate. Like grapes that takes on the flavours of the soil it’s grown in to produce wines specific to that region, Cuban tobacco takes in the richness of the Cuban soil. So only Cuban tobacco can give a Cuban cigar its unique Cuban taste. You are quite literally inhaling the richness of Cuba! The second thing I learnt was that Cuba is also unique in the fact that it produces all three tobacco leaves that is used to make the cigar – the filler, the wrapper and the binder – whereas other nations likely have to import at least one. Because of this, Cuban cigar makers are able to control the composition, flavour and texture of their cigar more easily when crafting it.

They lady who gave the talk allowed me to have a puff of a carefully cut Cohiba, the most esteemed cigar in Cuba. As soon as I put my lips on its casing, the bitterness hit me. I figured this would probably be a great time for a photo but noticing that everyone in the shop was now looking at me, probably wishing I would hurry up and get on with it so that they can have their talk, I drew inwards, a little too quickly. The heavy smoke filled my mouth and instantly hit the back of my throat causing my eyes to water and me to cough embarrassingly. ‘Welcome to the club’, my driver Horece said with a laugh as he patted my back. It tasted earthy and strong and felt like inhaling… well, smoke I guess.  It kind of reminded me of coffee, which I also don’t consume. That dark and heavy, rich, yet warm taste. Smokey but at the same time smooth.

I bought a few Cohiba’s… as souvenirs, of course. And one for Horeece, who was ever so grateful for the gesture. He kindly asked if I wouldn’t mind him smoking it in the car which I didn’t. He had no idea that for the next leg of our Chevrolet tour he indulged my cigar smoking, Chevrolet riding Cuban fantasy.  Next stop, Revolution Square.

One of the landmarks of the Cuban revolution, this plaza has been the site for most of Cuba’s political and social events. Although there wasn’t much to actually do here, my imagination couldn’t help but take me back to when Fidel would give his iconic speeches to the people of Cuba – his longest being apparently eight hours long. Surrounded by government buildings with the sculptures of Che Guevara and Camilio Cienfuegos on their front, this square is merely a pit stop for pictures and a bit of history if you are lucky to have a driver who knows enough to fill you in.

But of course, nothing beats the Cuban nightlife and Katy and a few girls from her hostel dolled up and we all went out dancing. It was funny how the men just assumed we were all well versed in salsa and would confidently grab our hands and lead us to the dance floor. A few of the girls resisted but Katy and I were very much about it. I explained to each dance partner that I was a beginner, ‘muy muy suave por favor’ (I was told to say this which translates as very, very soft) and each time they would smile, nod but then proceed to swing me around like one of the professionals on strictly come dancing. Definitely comical for all those around me, but I gave it my best shot. To be honest salsa was my driving force behind coming to Cuba, and you can find out all about my dance experience in my To Cuba is to Salsa post.

Havana certainly had its frustrating moments, aside from the food not being great as mentioned, there was the issue of no internet. Having to buy a one hour phone cards en mass and then hunt down a hotel that had WiFi to support the use of that card became a mission and I quickly learnt that planning ahead before arrival or winging it once here was the best way to approach Cuba.

So, would you enjoy this beauty as a travel destination? You can bet your bottoms dollar you would. Be sure to get your tourist card in advance and take anything other than dollars to convert your money when you touch down (USD has an additional conversion fee of 10%). Oh, and make sure to spend your CUPs (Cuban currency) on souvenirs – or mojitos! – as you are not allowed to take the currency out of the country with you when you leave! And lastly, if someone approaches you to dance whether out at breakfast, whilst passing a bar on a side street or out for drinks in the evening, don’t be shy to get involved, it’s all part of the Cuban experience 😊

Watch my Cuba video highlights as I journey through Havana, Santiago de Cuba and Baracoa.